It's always difficult to judge fabric based on small swatches. I thought this would be perfect jacket weight, but when 2.5 metres arrived it did feel quite heavy duty. I ignored any self doubt and stuck with my original Kelly Anorak plans. The fabric pre-washed fine with my usual washing machine settings - although there were some creases that didn't fully come out during the process. But truth be told, this is a relaxed style of jacket so I'm not concerned in the slightest. Having read Sonia's blog post on her Gaston trousers, it appears that the weight affects the washing conditions. Next time, I'll wash heavy weight fabric by itself at 40° C.
FYI, I've also noticed that it's quite an interesting colour to photograph - the shade name: "Driftwood" is an accurate description. The fabric is a soft brown/ khaki.
I'll also quickly mention the notions - for this weight of fabric, and the number of layers I was sewing through, the organic cotton thread was not strong enough and broke multiple times over. Ultimately, I ended swapping to a polyester thread for construction and topstitching - polyester thread has more "give" and is therefore less prone to breaking.
I made a quick toile of the body and sleeves to check how it fit on me. As a result the only fitting tweak was to broaden the back just a touch to give myself more room to move. The length of the sleeves and body is perfect - and this never happens. Sleeves and hemlines always turn out too short. For reference, my height is 5"10.
During construction, I strayed from the instructions a little bit by finishing raw edges with bias tape and by not installing snaps down the placket. I think the diameter of snap is just a little too wide to fit - and having worn my Kelly out and about, I don't think it's super necessary. Due to the thickness of the fabric, I chose not to fold under the raw edges of the drawstring casing, but rather opt for more bias tape. I also chose not to topstitch directly on the placket on right hand side (of the wearer). There was no way all those layers of fabric would fit underneath my machine. Instead, I topstitched next to it, a machine foot away from the placket which looks perfectly fine. Lastly, I accidentally bought a zip 2 inches shorter than required (this also doesn't affect anything during construction or when wearing it).
I did set out in my initial plans to use bias tape from Amandine in a matching colour. But I just thought a hint of stripes would finish it off perfectly - and bias tape always gets used, so I'll have it to hand for a future sewing project.
All the time and energy that goes into taming a heavy weight fabric is worth it. The Kelly Anorak is an investment project. The fabric may have been sent to me by Amandine, but the polyester thread, topstitching thread, snaps, grommets, drawstring, metal zip, interfacing and homemade bias tape (from leftover organic cotton lawn) were purchased by myself and were not cheap.
This is one of those items of clothing that will surpass #30wears. Clearly it pairs well with trousers, but I'm sure it works equally well with skirts/ dress. Being in the UK, this jacket will likely see me through to high summer. And probably on to early next Winter. (It has been designed to have plenty of room for layers underneath.) Being a heavy fabric, I'm not sure how well it would work in wet weather. One downside to using organic cotton is that it's not naturally water repellant. I've not done much research into more environmentally friendly waterproofing techniques, but I know there are options (like Otter Wax or Nikwax). Maybe in the future I'll waterproof my Kelly? But for now, I'm enjoying wearing it as it is - even with London's Siberian Spring weather.